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Clinical
Skin Care for People of Color
Scrub Sense or Nonsense
by Kat Leverette
The debate has always been heated among skin care specialists and
dermatologists as to the risks and benefits of scrubbing one's
countenance. The dangers of creating microscopic tears in the skin are
very real, especially if a scrub contains granules with irregular edges,
like crushed walnut shells or apricot pits.
Warning to People of Color: Abrasion caused by overzealous manual
exfoliation (scrubbing too often, using too much pressure) by any means
or method, coupled with exposure to sunlight, can leave unsightly and
hard-to-remove hyperpigmentation in its wake, especially on the neck.
You cannot scrub the "black" off your neck!
Washcloths vs. Scrubs vs. Buffing Pads: There are pitfalls to virtually
every method of "epidermabrasion", especially on Black skin.
Who's at Risk: Sensitive and thin-skinned individuals, People of Color,
and those using Retin-A®, Accutane®, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid
and other AHAs, BHA, photo-sensitive skin. Because many active
ingredients can cause superficial flaking, the temptation to scrub off
dead skin cells is sometimes irresistible. Abrading the skin manually
(scrubs, buffing pads, rubbing with a washcloth or towel, and
microdermabrasion procedures performed in a salon or medical office) can
cause over-exfoliation, allowing "active" home care topicals
to penetrate deeper into irritated skin. This can turn mild flaking into
scaling and prolonged irritation. It can also activate the melanocytes
in the basal layer of the epidermis (the cells that provide your natural
coloration), causing hyperpigmentation problems to increase
dramatically, especially if exposed to sunlight.
Unwelcome Results: The side effects include redness, burning, undue
scaling, increased sun-sensitivity, severe pigmentation problems and an
uneven skintone.
Better Yet: Try a thick coat of exfoliant mask containing clay and
sulfur or mild salicylic acid (BHA) to "passively" exfoliate
dead skin cells. Allow the mask to remain on the skin for up to 10
minutes. When mask is not quite dry, shower off gently with warm water
and pressure from fingertips only. Mild cleansers containing AHA and BHA
are also helpful exfoliators.
Safer Scrubs: Scrubs containing finely-ground meal (like cornmeal) and
round, man-made jojoba beads, polyethylene granules and marble spheres
have a smooth, uniform surface that won't tear delicate facial skin as
easily. However, overuse and/or applying too much pressure can still
cause problems! If you think you need to exfoliate, see a skin care
professional with tons of experience treating "skin of color".
Lactic acid peels, enzymes and gentle exfoliants designed especially for
home use on sensitive skin are much safer bets and can achieve the same
results.
©1999, 2000, 2001 Kat Leverette, Solutions Center, Kathryn Leverette,
Inc.
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