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A
New Classification For A New Area
of Cosmetology
by Luc Dewandre,
M.D.
ancient attaché F.O.Ancien attaché F.O. de Rothschild Paris
Medicine Esthetiques, Paris, Miami
A.KLIGMAN has invented the
word cosmeceutical. This American neologism has been translated in
French by the word "cosmeceutique".It should be used only as
an adjective, but this word is often used incorrectly as a substantive
and gather a new class of cosmetics products. Those cosmeceuticals products as their pharmaceuticals cousins are claiming for a real and
demonstrated activity at least in the field of skin ageing mark's
improvement.
The Greek etymology should make us prefer an other terminology which
make the distinction between two classes of cosmetic products; the
"isocosmetic" products which are maintaining the appearance
and the ameinocosmetic products which allow to improve it.
At the dawn of the third
millenary, the cosmetology has reached a decisive step. Indeed, the
science of the appearance has extensively evolved in the recent years.
Some new products has appeared and some of them has got a real efficacy
within the derm level. They have broken the sacred line which was
supposed to limit the field of activity of the cosmetic products. Those
new products not only allow to maintain or to protect the skin, they are
also actually treating the acquired aesthetic imperfections,
pigmentations, permanent erythema, superficial and even deep wrinkles.
Are they by the way drugs? We do not think so as they are not treating
diseases or organic dysfunctions. Meanwhile, they have created a new
class of cosmetic products which are really improving and among other
troubles the marks of skin ageing.
Better than to speak about cosmeceutics, a word without etymological
logic and in spite of this neologism has been created by the
unquestionable leader of that new discipline, Albert Kligman, we would
prefer to suggest to make a distinction between two categories of
cosmetic products :
· the "isocosmetic" products (maintenance products) working
in the epidermis and gathering cleansing, moisturizing, nutritive, sun
protective and free radicals protective products.
· the "ameinocosmetic" products (which produces improvement)
working in the epidermis as well as directly or indirectly in the dermis
: retinoids, alpha hydroxyacids, depigmenting and anti erythema agents.
The etymological logic of the new term we suggest is the following. Amnion
is a old Greek word which means better. It is the comparative of agates = good.
Isocosmetic would be, if it becomes accepted, an adjective which would
mean of equal appearance or beauty.
Ameinocosmetic would mean of a better appearance.
Of course, this distinction must be qualified : a good maintenance with
moisturizing and nutritive products will allow to improve the aspect of
the skin but at a lesser level than the ameinocosmetic products listed
here up.
By the way, the ancestor of ameinocosmetology, second neologism
suggested here, is finery cosmetology, the good old make-up.
The emergence of the ameinocosmetic products has been a real revolution.
Those products allow to prepare, to maintain or even if you get enough
time, and at a lesser level to take the place of more aggressive and
quicker skin rejuvenation techniques as mechanical, chemical or physical
(laser) peelings.
Those products correct the esthetic defects of the skin, not the skin
diseases and has created a new class of cosmetic products and opened a
new, scientific, effective and resolutely modern area of the cosmetology
at the dawn of the 21rst century.
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